BMW F 850 GS: Riding High In The Balkans
There’s something magnetic about the open road. The rumble of engines, the throttle steady in your hand, the horizon widening with every curve – it’s a feeling every biker knows. But when that journey unfolds with a group of kindred spirits, the experience deepens. It stops being just about the miles and becomes a story of friendship, freedom, and discovery.
That was the essence of my journey with Venus Motorcycle Tours across Romania and Bulgaria. This wasn’t just any ride – it was led by superstar Ajith Kumar, who founded the company with his partner Shiva Swaminath. For many of us, this was the perfect mix of adventure and inspiration, with bikers from across the world converging to share the road.
“As a rider who often led friends on trips, it felt natural to take the next step. Everyone urged me to start a company of my own – one that would curate biking adventures across the world, shaped by the way I love to travel,” said Ajith Kumar, who rode with Shiva for the first time since founding the company, making it even more special.
Bucharest to Brașov
The group gathered in Bucharest on a warm Monday morning, engines idling beneath the shadow of the city’s Arc de Triomphe and the colossal Palace of Parliament. The mix of riders was as diverse as the landscapes we were about to encounter: seasoned veterans, newcomers attempting their first big bike ride abroad, couples chasing adventure together, and even a father-daughter duo.
The chaos of Bucharest traffic felt oddly familiar to the Indian bikers in our crew – horns blaring, cars weaving, heat rising off the asphalt. But soon we were on the highway, the city roads opened, and the rhythm of the ride began. Our first stop was Sinaia, where roadside churches crowned with onion domes glinted in the sun. Lunch was humble – wood-fired pizza at a place aptly named Pizza Station – but it was exactly the fuel we needed before turning onto winding mountain roads.
Those roads led us up the Transbucegi, the “Road to the Old Dames”. Serpentine curves carved through dense forests, honey sellers waving us down with jars of liquid gold, and finally, the magnificent open meadows of Bucegi National Park, where silence rang louder than our engines, broken only by the sound of the cow bells. By evening, we descended toward Bran Castle – the so-called “Dracula’s Castle” – in Transylvania, before heading on into Brașov, a Saxon city straight out of a fairytale.
“I am discovering so much more about my daughter. This time she’s pillion, maybe next time she will ride, and I’ll be pillion,” said Manohar Iyer, founder of Saptham cold pressed oils. “Dad is always so busy, it’s hard to spend time with him. So this has given us time to bond,” said Anagha, his daughter.
The first day had delivered it all: highways, history, myths and mountains. And around dinner tables in Brașov’s old town, strangers began to feel like friends, and families shared new bonds.
The Legendary Transfăgărășan
The second day brought with it a sense of anticipation. We were about to ride on the Transfăgărășan Highway – famously dubbed “the most spectacular road in the world.” Rolling out of Brașov, we crossed medieval watchtowers and pastel façades before slipping into countryside lanes and farmland.
At first, the ride was gentle, punctuated by quirky stops like a treehouse café and rustic roadside lunches. But soon the mountains began to rise. For Benita, the only woman riding her own superbike, it was a test of courage – and a revelation of community. Every time the weight of her machine became too much, there was someone to steady it, someone to guide her around a curve. Watching the group rally around her was a reminder that biking is never just about machines; it’s about people.
The Transfăgărășan gave us everything – brown bears ambling by the roadside, the glittering expanse of Vidraru Dam, endless switchbacks climbing into clouds, and finally, the icy stillness of Bâlea Lake. What began as a sunny ride ended in rain, mist and slippery hairpins. We descended soaked, chilled but buzzing with adrenaline. Riding on the Transfăgărășan was the highlight for every biker – every turn testing you, every curve rewarding you with pure exhilaration.
“Wow, I cannot believe I just did that,” Benita said. “I was scared coming down in all that mist, I could barely see, and just followed the lights in front of me. I feel on top of the world.”
By the time we rolled into Sibiu, a medieval Saxon town, the warmth of food and laughter felt like a luxury earned.
The King's road: Transalpina
From Sibiu, the journey turned toward another legend: the Transalpina, Romania’s highest paved road. Nicknamed “the King’s Road” and “the road closest to the clouds,” it climbs to 2,145 metres over Urdele Pass.
We passed villages where locals waved us on. The Jidoștina Spring offered fresh mountain water, and the Oașa and Tău Bistra reservoirs mirrored the sky in their still waters. Then the climb began.
On the Transalpina, the ride was pure freedom – wheels tracing ribbons of asphalt through the clouds, the horizon unfolding like an endless promise. At Obârșia Lotrului, we paused to take in the Parâng peaks stretching to the horizon. And then the road lifted into its most dramatic stretch – curves snaking upward, guardrails disappearing, the world dissolving into clouds. Standing at the viewpoint and watching the bikers snake up the road felt like I was knocking on heaven’s door.
Cresting Urdele Pass was a moment to remember, and the descent into Rânca – a small mountain resort – was a welcome reprieve. There, roadside grills filled the air with the smell of sausages, smoky meats and cheese. Riders filled their stomachs, their laughter mingling with the mountain wind.
“I ride bikes and drink beer,” said Varadarajan TT, known for bringing the California Superbike School into India. At over 70 years old, he matches the younger riders with ease. “Transalpina was something else; riding the twisties, that’s my favourite part,” he says.
Into Bulgaria
The days blurred into a rhythm of ride, rest and rediscover. Craiova gave way to the Vidin-Calafat Bridge, carrying us over the Danube into Bulgaria. Vidin welcomed us with lunch on the riverbank, the Danube glistening like a mirror. From there, the road to Sofia was long and varied – plains giving way to mountains.
Sofia itself was a study in contrasts: Orthodox cathedrals and Ottoman mosques beside modern boulevards. For us, it meant biking to gear shops instead of sightseeing.
Taking a day’s break in Sofia gave us time to share stories.
“I saw stories of Ajith riding and felt if he can spare time and ride, then I can do it too,” said businessman Vijai Subramaniam, owner of Royal Oak furniture stores. His wife Maheshwari added, “I ride pilllion with him. With all the rain and fog, it was daunting, but I just trusted him, and I’m so glad I did. It is unreal on a bike.” Sasi Kumar, the founder of many schools and colleges, has come all the way from Malaysia, and says, “I drove around the world in cars till I was inspired by watching Ajith Kumar on his bike. Now, I love riding on two wheels.”
The arch of freedom
Our penultimate day took us into the Balkan Mountains, where the Arch of Freedom at Beklemeto stands tall at 1,520 metres. The climb up was a motorcyclist’s dream – smooth asphalt curling through pine forests, opening onto sweeping ridges. The Arch itself, built to honour Bulgarian and Soviet soldiers, felt symbolic.
Standing at the Arch of Freedom, gorgeous views around, and the wind whipping around us, Shiva turns to me and says, “It’s all his (Ajith Kumar’s) fault. I was happily semi-retired, but he wanted to do Venus Tours. Now I love it, and I’m working at full pace again.”
From there, we descended into Veliko Tarnovo, the “City of the Tsars.” Cobbled streets, fortress walls, and the Yantra River winding through – it was history brought alive, and the perfect closing chapter before our final ride back to Bucharest.
More than a road
Across 1,600 kilometres, we had crossed countries, climates, and centuries of history. We had battled heat, rain, fatigue, and endless switchbacks. But more than the landscapes, what stayed with me were the people.
Biking is a passion, yes. But when that passion is shared, when it becomes community, it transforms into something greater. That’s what Venus Motorcycle Tours captured: not just a route across Romania and Bulgaria, but a reminder that freedom is best felt when the road is shared.
As we rode the last stretch into Bucharest, tired but smiling, it was clear – this journey wasn’t about distance at all. It was about connection. And that, more than anything, is why bikers ride together.
from Autocar India https://ift.tt/X3Hs0Mn
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